Fashion Design School of Design

Elsie Hagan

(they/them)

The Leather Menace

 

The Leather Menace looks at the spectre of the lesbian body in the 20th century, particularly focusing on the 70s-90s. I look at leatherdyke subculture and explore how the lesbian body was abstracted and reconfigured through SM practice and view this as a radical act of queer defiance against the staus quo. Fabric making and manipulation, such as knitwear, are central to this project, and these practices are used to spotlight gender-nonconforming, fat, queer bodies and highlight the beauty of the diversity of bodies.

Contact
elsieroseh@gmail.com
E.Hagan2@student.gsa.ac.uk
Works
The Leather Menace: Portfolio
The Leather Menace: Runway Photos
The Leather Menace: Samples

The Leather Menace: Portfolio

Contains nudity, sexual content and SM practice

Portfolio research pages: Vintage lesbian magazines

Portfolio research pages: Lesbian BDSM event flyers

Portfolio research pages: Vintage fetishwear magazines

Portfolio research pages: Rebel Dykes, Catherine Opie

Portfolio research pages: Bloodsisters documentary, bondage scans

Portfolio research pages: Artist research: Tessa Boffin, Kaucyila Brooke

Portfolio research pages: Artist research: Jill Posener, Della Grace

Portfolio research pages: Artist research, collages

Portfolio research pages: Hans Bellmer, Shibari Photography

Portfolio research pages: Artist research, collages

Silhouette development: Draping on the body

Silhouette development: Draping on the body

Silhouette development: Collages

Silhouette development: Draping on half scale mannequin

Design development: Fabric collages

Line ups

Line ups

Making: look 1

Making: look 2

Making: look 3

Making: look 3

Look 1 final garment

Look 2: Final garment

Look 3: Final garment

The Leather Menace: Samples

These samples draw upon my research into queer subcultures and how they use body manipulation in their practices, combining constrasting techniques and textures, such as leather and wool, to mirror the distortion of the body by external forces in queer BDSM practice.

leather chain knit sample

lace up knit sample

Upcycled leather belt sample

knitted textured sample

ruched organza sample

leather slashing sample

ruched knitted sample

leather safety pin sample

knitted wire sample

loose mohair knit and leather pleats samples

metalwear knitted sample