Glasgow School of Design Textile Design

Jessica Turnbull

A Scottish Knitwear Textile Designer is currently exploring digital applications of knitwear. My graduate collection Baltic Constructivism is inspired by my travels to Estonia and the contrasts in architectural details between two areas of Tallinn; The Old Town and Lasnamäe. Architecture has always been at the root of my process, sourcing inspiration from small details and conjunction of materials found within urban landscapes. My practise focuses on creating a juxtaposition of structures through innovative surface manipulation techniques whether this be through stitch, yarn or finishing. I am interested in pairing unconventional yarns together to create unexpected outcomes. I have explored  yarn behaviours this year and how this effects the character of the knit trying to push the boundaries of what people perceive knitwear to look like. With sustainability at the forefront of my design decisions I have created a zero waste collection using donated and deadstock yarns using digital knit technology as a way to eliminate waste.

Sponsorship:

Morssinkhof Recycled PET Plastic Industrial Yarns

Z. Hinchcliffe & Sons

Awards:

The Gillian Purvis Trust 2021 Award

The Textile Society Highly Commended 2021 Student Award

Contact
jessicaturnbull16@hotmail.com
j.turnbull1@student.gsa.ac.uk
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Baltic Constructivism
Development: Baltic Constructivism
Folding Facades

Baltic Constructivism

Baltic Constructivism SS22 Womenswear collection, looks at the
formulation of knitwear inspired by travels to Estonia and the
contrasts in architectural details between two areas of
Tallinn; The Old Town and Lasnamäe. Where Stark communist
blocks meet intricate patterns.

Through unconventional drawing by overlaying stencils and embossing papers has conveyed subtle textures alongside
graphic patterns. Translating paper into knitwear through
technical CAD knit development. Exploring the technical
possibilities of digital knitting. Experimenting with surface
manipulation processes by felting, cutting, and embossing.

Sustainability has been at the core of the material choices
and overall circular design concept by regenerating waste.
Pairing unconventional deadstock and donated yarns together
creating a juxtaposition of properties. Combining fibres based
on their behaviours to create structural knit with a playful
nature, stimulating movement.

Through using video research – I have evolved my working
process; presenting digital documentation of the work as well
as becoming a fundamental feature within the collection.
Allowing me to review the movement of the textile and to
develop the overall knitted structure of the piece.

With special thanks to Hilary Jane Keyes. To Photographers Dom Manderson, Kyle Cowan and Model Katy Bailey.

Sponsors:

Morssinkhof Recycled PET Plastic Industrial Yarns

Z. Hinchcliffe & Sons

Awards:

The Gillian Purvis Trust 2021 Award

The Textile Society Highly Commended 2021 Student Award

Rhombus Design

14gg digital fabric, deadstock viscoses

Rhombus Design

Baltic Constructivism, 14gg digital fabric, deadstock Viscose, Model Katy Bailey

Rhombus Design

14gg digital fabric, deadstock viscoses
Close up of knitted structures

Rhombus Semi-Circle Design

14gg Digital Fabric, deadstock sub Polymaide and Rayon thread
Close up of knitted structures.

Skinny Triangle Design

14gg digital fabric, Sub Polymaide and Rayon thread

Moiré Design

Trippy effect created by angling rhombus shapes in different directions to create movement through pattern.

increasing Rhombuses design

exploring scales to create movement of the fabrics structure.

Skinny Triangle Design

Lime Rayon thread plating with deadstock Duck egg sub Polymaide Yarn

Moiré Design

Close up of knit structure when fabric is contracted.

Increasing Rhombus Design

Close up of knitted structure and different scales of pattern, using deadstock Rayon thread and white stretch Viscose
Head scarves inspired by Estonian national dress. Model Katy Bailey.
Moiré Fabric and Triangles visualised as a SS22 look.
Rhombus Increasing visualised as SS22 collection garment.
Model Katy Bailey, Baltic Constructivism Womenswear SS22 collection.

Triangles Design

14gg, Recycled Plastic yarn, Orange Rayon thread and deadstock sub Polymaide.
Triangles Fabric SS22 Womenswear Collection
Triangles Fabric close up of knitted structure in black and white.
Coloured 35mm Film Photography by Kyle Cowan, Baltic Constructivism Collection fabrics together.
Film Photography by Kyle Cowan

Rhombus Design

SS22 Womenswear Collection.

Rhombus Design

14gg Digital fabric, Photography Dom Manderson

Rhombus Design

SS22 Womenswear Collection.

Graphic Embossed Crescent Design

100% Z. Hinchcliffe & Sons Lambswool, digitally knitted Jacquard with heat embossed Crescent shapes on top.
Close up of heat embossed surfaces creating subtle patterns through the collection.

Stacked Circles Design with Embossed Surface

Ember Z.Hinchcliffe Lambswool with Recycled PET Plastic yarn, embossed using wooden stencils in heat press.

Oval Design

14gg digital fabric, rPET plastic yarn with deadstock terracotta Viscose plating. Back and front view.

Triangles Mirrored Design

Rayon thread with deadstock Merino Wool. Digitally knitted at Hilary Jane Keyes Studio.

Large Scale Crescent Design with Ovals Texture

rPET Plastic Yarn with Terracotta deadstock Viscose, 14gg digital fabric.

OVALS INCREASING

rPET Plastic yarn with deadstock Sub Polymaide.

Morié Design

Close up of design pattern. Inspired by the Estonian Song and Dance Festival.

Triangles Mirrored

Close up of knitted structure.

Development: Baltic Constructivism

primary research photography

Primary research and colour work

Digital Collages and Colour material finish development

digital colour palettes

thread wraps and colour development

installation drawings working with shadows

Installation drawings working on layering patterns both subtle and graphic

embossing mood board and initial tests on fabrics

embossed surfaces with hand cut lambswool structures layered

heat embossing on wools and deadstock fabrics

digital fabric development from research to fabric exploration

combining surfaces and structures together

Folding Facades

Folding Facades, is an additional portfolio project focusing on the 3D folded structures of paper inspired by Estonian brickwork and the facades of buildings from my primary research. I have worked on replicating these structures from paper into 3D pieces of knitwear for a fashion context. Influenced by origami folding and the work of Victoria Salmon using these same
ideas in the construction of technical digital knit files. Deadstock yarns have been used in the construction of this project with there properties favouring dynamic form making. Focusing on 3 images from primary research in Baltic Constructivism to explore in further detail throughout this project.

Model Katy Bailey, film photography by Kyle Cowan.

With special Thanks to the Gillian Purvis Award 2021 trustees for their support.

Chevron fabric

Digital fabric using origami idea to manipulate knit structure into 3D form.

Chevron fabric

Film Photography by Kyle Cowan

chevron fabrics layered

Film Photography by Kyle Cowan

chevron elongated fabric

initial chevron fabric

chevron fabric

elongated chevron fabric

modelled by Katy Bailey

elongated chevron fabric

elongated chevron

chevron stretch fabric

chevron stretch fabric

chevron stretch fabric

With deadstock yellow Merino wool.

chevron fabric

visualised as a sleeve design.

chevron stretch fabric

digital fabric, photography by Dom Manderson
Details of chevron fabrics.

Primary Research

Primary Research

Primary Research

Contextual Awareness

contextual awareness

contextual awareness

Paper Drawing

paper drawing

Paper Drawing

Paper constructions working on composition

Paper constructions working on composition

Paper constructions working on composition

chevron initial test fabric

elongated chevron

chevron stretch fabric