School of Design / Textile Design / Nell Burgess / A blur of purple hands

A blur of purple hands

 

Inspired by photographs that capture fleeting moments of movement, I have developed a collection that embodies this sense of transience and blur. Through this work, I aim to foreground process, as it is central to my practice. Over the past year, I have experimented with and refined techniques that best communicate this research. My approach draws on the traditions of Japanese Kurume Kasuri — kasuri meaning “to blur” — and Ikat, meaning “to bind.” I have long been fascinated by the process of resist dyeing threads prior to weaving, and this interest resurfaced unexpectedly when an unsealed pen leaked onto a reel of cotton. The irregular stain created a soft, organic blur across the wrapped threads, inspiring further exploration within my practice.

Building on my knowledge of natural dyeing, I have become increasingly interested in the creation and production of colour itself. Working with fibres such as Uist Wool has strengthened my connection to locally sourced and traceable materials, reinforcing the relationship between landscape, process, and cloth. The patience and intention required by these processes have deepened my connection to slowness within making. I aim to create fabrics gradually and on a small scale, encouraging them to be valued for their materiality and craftsmanship, while reminding us that so much of what we need exists within our immediate surroundings. Sustainability remains central to my practice.

Whilst imagining the context for my collection I considered capturing the movement within my primary research.  I like the idea of my weaves not becoming stagnant pieces of cloth once all of the activities involved in their making have ended. I have visualised them as clothing – bespoke, potentially for performance or to live a life of activity and longevity. For this context a prominent reference has been Unkruid, a collaborative project founded in antwerp, primarly they make clothes. Their process envolves extensive research into shape pattern and finish, with a focus on the process of ageing through wear and washing. I love the idea of designing for longevity and the fabric of these peices evolving through wear and being repaired with care. Although I like to think of the nature of my fabrics being on the bespoke side of textile design I see no reason for things to be made that are too precious to be used. this is the way i understand circluarity, I intend for my work to be grounded in the principles of “field to fabric to field.”

double cloth blanket

top cloth, warp dyed naturally with logwood woven with deadstock hand dyed cashmere, Uist wool and Jamiesons of shetland weaving yarn

primary research
sketchbood drawing and composition
primary research and sample
warping and weaving
ikat illustration of migrating patterns

process/ primary research alongside jacquard blanket

ikat cloth, usit wool sateen and double cloth
dyeing process warping stretching threading
design development
sketchbook and scans
double cloth blanket

Bottom cloth, Uist historic yarns, very kindly donated woven with deadstock and naturally dyed yarns

Ikat dyed warp, woven single cloth and double with uist
logwood dyed ikat samples in the bushes